I have two excuses for the lack of updates here. First off Internet connections are very expensive (especially for wifi) and after driving many hours I just don’t have the energy or inclination to sit in front of a computer. I’m currently in Darwin (a great city) taking a few days rest and as a friend discovered the free wifi at the library I’m trying to make the most of it. Expect a flurry of email and facebook activity from me today.

About a month ago we visited Fraser Island. The worlds largest sand island, and at over 120km long I can confirm (having seen it from the air and close up) that it is indeed very big. Due to budget restraints we had two options for seeing the island. Either jumping on one of the tour buses or doing the backpacker self drive. In one sense I wanted to do the self drive as caining along sandy tracks and a big long beach in a 4×4 is definitely my idea of fun. The opportunity to meet some great other fellow travellers also appealed. On the downside, by doing this trip you end up cramped into an old Toyota (sounds familiar) with 8 – 11 strangers who could well be 18 year old yout’s with little other interest other than getting wasted and you could end up with an idiotic driver like myself who would scare the living daylights out of you as a passenger.

The other option was a two day tour in a large bus full of tourists. Not something I generally like doing, but the bonus points here were comfort, all you can eat buffet food and knowledgeable guides who can explain what you are seeing. Although the tour was more expensive for less time we went with this as we didn’t want the risk of other idiots ruining our visit. Besides, the idea of cooking and camping didn’t really appeal as that is exactly what we are doing day by day here anyway.

As it turned out I was happy with our decision. The tour was excellent and reports of the coldest weather for 10 years and backpackers freezing on the beach made me even more smug about it. Our guide (who was a spitting image of Lou from Neighbours) was extremely informative about the incredible island which is formed entirely from sand. We learned how the island was formed, how the vegetation (which is incredibly diverse) manages to grow and survive there despite the lack of soil and how the island is constantly changing. We also learned of the many different and abundant wildlife species on and around the island and although we saw a great deal including humpback whales, we didn’t see any dingoes. Some of the silent, crystal clear creeks running along with golden sand river beds were incredible as were the cold but stunning lakes surrounded by sand dunes. The silicone sand surrounding lake Mackenzie was beautiful and pretty interesting when viewed using macro to go in close. I could go on and on about this place but it really has to be seen to be believed.

While on Fraser we also went up for a brief flight over the island taking off and landing on the beach. This served to illustrate just how big the island is and take in the marvellous sights from the air. We also got to see the numerous sharks swimming metres away from the shore and even spotted a Manta ray. Awesome stuff.

Due to the petrol that runs through my veins I was also in awe of some of the machinery used to get around the island and the skill of our driver who managed to get a huge bus down tracks where numerous dedicated 4x4s were getting stuck. This served to illustrate that I have to return here one day and hire my own 4×4 for a few days of fun.

After our two days on Fraser Island we went out for a day’s whale watching in Hervey Bay. This spot is where every year hundreds of humpback whales come to rest after the long migration north to mate. We were sold by the guaranteed sighting or return trip offer and the incredible pictures of whales breaching close to the boats and whales eyeballing the passengers. Unfortunately for us it was nothing like that. We spent several hours searching without a sighting, and then when our skipper did find one it just swam along without showing off at all. Still this is nature doing it’s own thing and not a zoo and thanks to my wonderful Canon toys I was still able to get some good pics.

Looking back on it now it did seem like a waste of time and money as the whales we saw and Byron Bay, The Whitsundays and on the Great Barrier Reef in Cairns surpass the experience we had at Hervey bay. That said, it all comes down to luck. We may not have seen any and we were there to early in the season. August is the time when they really come out to play. In actual fact, the highlight of the trip for me was seeing and hearing the dolphins playing along side the bow of the boat a mere metre away from where I was standing. They almost seemed to be vying for our attention. “Don’t watch the whales, they’re boring. Look at what I can do!”