Merry Christmas

December 25, 2006 Andy 4 Comments

I spent a long time yesterday writing a post about our three day train journey. I spell checked it in gmail and in the process of copying it back into wordpress I lost 80% of the post (It was a good one too). Most frustrating. Anyway, here’s my second attempt.

I’ve always liked train journeys. Ever since I was a kid the hours seemed to pass a quickly as the scenery. Even so, the idea of three days couped up in second class was quite daunting. From Jaipur we had several options to get to Cochin. The first was a single train that would get us there in about 26 hours. This was fully booked. The second option was a train to Mumbai (18 hours) then a second down the west coast to Cochin. This was also fully booked. The third option was to take the slow train to Mumbai (22 hours) then a train that headed south east, almost to Madras, before doubling back south west down to Cochin (37 hours). This was also fully booked… but only for the day we wanted to leave. The following day we could take option 3. So here we are in Cochin 2 days later than we’d hoped.

The relatively short run from Jaipur to Mumbai was not too painful. There was plenty of space in our sleeper car and one was free to wander about. Watching out the window was entertaining, but for full effect one can stand by the open door and see the world pass by. Fantastic stuff. Apart from this, reading and (interrupted) sleep (I always wake up when the train stops at a station) helped pass the hours.

We had a 6 hour wait in Mumbai. Just enough time for a good pizza and to watch the locals playing cricket in the many parks. I’ve never seen so many simultaneous cricket games on at once. There must have been 10 – 15 games, all players dressed in their whites, with two umpires, a pavilion tent and score board for each game. These people are obsessed with the game.

The second train was not so comfortable. In our compartment, designed to seat / sleep six had 13 people rammed into it. Once again quite frustrating, but we did get talking to someone who I can only describe as the first truly friendly Indian I’ve met in the country. Everyone else who has been friendly has been trying to get our custom or rip us off. This chap, Anup, explained why the train was so full. Most people were from the state of Kerela and were going home for Christmas. Unable to get seats on any of the trains, they would get a waiting list ticket and then pay the fine for not having a valid ticket. The fine often goes straight into the ticket collectors pocket, which goes some way to explain why there were people crammed into every available space (including next to the foul smelling toilets). Anup also helped us out with ordering food. A top fellow.

Despite the overcrowding, the foul stench coming from the toilets, the immense heat and overly spicy food I really enjoyed the trip. It was a great way to see the culture, meet the locals (I didn’t see any other westerners on the train) and see the country pass by.

We are now in Cochin in 30+ temperatures. Yesterday we met a English / French couple who are also on a years travelling trip. They are trying to do as much as possible overland and have so far visited Russia, Mongolia (catching the end of the Mongol Rally) China, Tibet, Nepal and India. We went for a well needed seafood meal and spent the evening chatting away. A nice pair, and their own website is as follows: www.tomandlaureinasia.com

Despite going to a carol concert in the first Christian Church ever built in India, it really doesn’t feel like Christmas. Right now I must say I do miss the traditional Christmas day. Family, Christmas turkey and presents… Merry Christmas to you all.

4 People reacted on this

  1. Yes, we had theusual wonderful Christmas lunch cooked by Malcolm. His neice-in-law, Claire, took your place. Happy Christmas to you all.
    Love H, B, M, B, C, S, and the children

  2. I tried to make this entry at Malcolm’s and it hasn’t appeared. We had the usual very good lunch cooked by Malc. Then playing games with the kids etc. Brigitte’s neice took your place.

    Happy Christmas from H, B, C, S, M, B and the kids.

    Cathy missed a phone call from India but I didn’t get one.

  3. Hola churris,

    que espero todo va bien en vuestro viaje. estoy otra vez en madrid, salgo hoy a alemania otra vez. Hoy ha explotado una autobomba en la T4 del aeropuerto. Ha desaparecido una persona y hay 15 heridos. Ya sabeis, aquí siempre algo de terrorismo presente y nada mas. todo bien.
    que tengais und fin de año fantastico, don’t get ripped off too often!!
    and muchos saludos del parte de concha.
    un abrazo,
    mitchi konietzka

  4. Good to read all the updates so far Placey, sounds fabulous… Hope the Internet cafe keyboard you were using to write the mega update stood up to the pounding you no doubt dished out to the poor thing as Gmail laid waste to most of said update 🙂

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